Navigating to Sitka from Peril Strait requires the proper timing of Sergius Narrows, so we departed False Island in time to make slack water in the narrows, making it an uneventful cruise in calm water. We planned to anchor in St. John the Baptist Bay, but those waters were thick with lion’s mane jellyfish. Fascinating to watch, jellyfish can clog generator intakes, rendering them useless, so we opted for a smaller bay close by and set our hook. That evening, the rain stopped just long enough to grill steaks on the back deck, resuming when we were sitting down to eat. We were grateful for the weather break!

Excited to get to Sitka and secure moorage, we weighed anchor early the next morning. For some reason, sea stars find a home in the anchor chain while it lies on the seabed floor. At first surprising when discovering them, we’ve grown accustomed to their presence when we pull up the anchor, and perform careful extraction to minimize harm as they fall back into the sea.

Monday was only the seventh day of sunshine seen in Sitka since May first; everyone wanted to be outdoors! The town is stunning in daylight, with blue skies and puffy white clouds complementing the dark blue sea and snow-sprinkled mountains. Nearby Castle Hill, once home to Tlingit, is where Russia transferred Alaska to the United States, and provides a panoramic view of Sitka Sound. Just outside of town is Fortress of the Bear, a former paper mill that now houses orphaned cubs. Their mission is to provide sanctuary and protection for young bears who lost their mother and would otherwise die. The animals are treated with care and respect, their surroundings large and thoughtful. Still, it’s a bit heartbreaking to see these imposing creatures in captivity.

Southeast Alaska has two kinds of bears: black and brown. But the classification is about species, not color. Black bears can be black, brown, cinnamon or white. They’re the most common in the state. Coastal brown bears are huge ones related to grizzlies (who live inland); these are common on the “ABC” islands we’re traversing (Admiralty, Baranof and Chichagof). We’ve seen a few brown bears from a distance and they are enormous.

Dave left this morning and it’s time for chores: changing faulty pumps, water maker filters, generator oil and engine oil are tasks that have to be completed. We plan to continue our journey south on Thursday, going back through Sergius Narrows and exploring the east side of Baranof Island on the slow journey out of Alaska.