Despite persistent rain, the sun popped out long enough to show Tenakee Springs in her sweeping glory. Views from waterfront homes are breathtaking. The inlet is expansive and calm, seals pop up like ground hogs, and whales spout in the distance. Imagine waking up to this every day! Forty people do – they’re the hearty, year-round residents. The other 60-ish folks that make up the official population of 100 come for the summer. There’s a bit of tension between the two, as the former don’t appreciate the seasonal “crowds”.

Tenakee has a Tlingit origin. Its name means copper water, referring to the brown tannins coloring the many streams that empty into the inlet; Kama Hele’s wake highlighted that coppery color. The hot springs for which the village is known are a popular attraction, with scheduled time for men or women; “birthday suit” only. There is one road in Tenakee and an ordinance against cars. Most residents use bikes for transportation, ignoring the rain, mud and puddles. A peek inside one of the houses as we returned from the market showed these are not shacks, but well-constructed, craftsman-style dwellings taking full advantage of the incredible location. It’s a pretty and charming hamlet, with a clean and well stocked Snyder Mercantile market, church and post office. I mailed letters to grandkids!

We stayed in the protected waters of Tenakee Inlet two nights while a storm was disturbing the Gulf of Alaska. The waters we travel are mostly calm and shielded from strong winds, making it a popular playground for boaters. Still, we prefer to hunker down in blustery weather.

We left Tenakee on Friday, spending the night on the small government docks at False Island, as we continue making way to Sitka. It takes data from multiple sources to ensure safe cruising, and we cross reference information every time we move from one spot to another. Books like Waggoner’s and the Douglas Guide are references from numerous boaters who cruised these waters for decades. Apps like Windy and Predict Wind provide timely wind and current conditions, the National Weather Service Radio is our background music as we prepare for departure, and information/tips from area locals is invaluable. With all the mental focus, when we reach a new port or anchorage, we’re ready for naps!