Dave joined us in Juneau and we began our trip south, retracing some steps, with low clouds and periodic rain following us. Occasionally the skies clear enough to see steep, snow-laden mountains in the distance, but often we rely on imagination to remind us of our rugged surroundings. The wind and seas picked up on our way to Swanson Bay. This is not a problem for Kama Hele, but it means everything that might tip over or spill is secured. The water jug sits in the sink, coffee cups are stowed, and our house plant moves to the floor. Once we ducked into the protection of Swanson Bay, the water became flat and the wind barely a whisper. Air Ship and her flotilla, boaters we met in Puget Sound years ago, were anchored in Swanson. It’s always good to see a friendly face, and while cruising in Southeast Alaska, we regularly see people we know: English Rose, Salt Heart, Odyssey and Mystic Dancer, all from Anacortes, are up here.

From Hoonah we set out for Tenakee Springs, but the wind and seas kicked up in Chatham Strait, so we ditched into tiny Whitestone Harbor to wait out the unexpected blow. Again, the little inlet provided great protection from winds and weather. We spent a calm night on the hook treated to great wildlife viewing: whales spouted in the distance, eagles dove for fish, loons called, deer nibbled on low tree branches and we saw a black bear lumbering on the shore.

Provisioning in small Alaska towns and villages is challenging, and food is expensive. Even the one Costco in Juneau is small and options are limited, though we did score a crate of summer peaches, quickly enjoying every juicy bite. We keep the freezer stocked with fish, chicken and beef, and we’ve learned to buy long-lasting fresh produce like cabbage, carrots, citrus, melons and apples when we can. It’s cool enough, and the sun rare enough, that we tried storing Costco-sized bags of lemons and apples on the chilly back deck, until we saw a raven sitting on our railing, ready to pounce on our provisions. We learned to keep all food inside the boat.

We rose at 5:00 this morning and are headed (again) to Tenakee Springs, a bawdy frontier town that was a hideout for robbers in the late 1800s. It’s now known for its hot springs, though we’re all looking forward to finding something warm and sweet at the local bakery.